Reflecting on 2016 at a spot that makes my Top 5, the Buffalo National River.
I’ve now been to all Lower 48 states and Hawaii. Finally got my passport stamped with trips to Nicaragua for an epic trail race and the Netherlands for some family ancestry searching.
But if I’m honest, 2017 scares me a lot. How can it compete to the journey I’ve had over the last two years? I guess the only thing I can do it wait and see where my path leads.
Today I had the honor of getting to run with Brandon on an epic run to the top of Moanalua Valley. We had clear sky’s and views of both sides of the island!
Not only is Brandon part of the Orange Mud Team but he proudly serves this great country of ours. Grateful to have spent the morning getting to know you on the trail on Veterans Day and to meet your family afterwards for lunch…or as his son Asher corrected us brunch.
Also, thank you to all the Veteran’s for your service to this country which allows me the freedom to explore this beautiful land of ours! Happy Veterans Day!
How many of you want to see pictures from Hawaii? Or more so, who wants to see photos from one of the top 20 most dangerous hikes in the world?
November 7th I’ll be flying to Hawaii for three weeks to explore three of the islands. For two of the three weeks I’ll have Michelle from Restless Wanderess to help check off state #49 for both of us. For those that don’t remember I met Michelle and her kids in Wyoming for a hike as they were headed to the Pacific Northwest. We’ve both finished the lower 48 this year so I’m grateful to have her with me to experience the epic Kalulua Trail as well as a few others in state 49.
I should be packing for my trip but I stumbled across these gems! Here’s a taste of what National Parks I’ve visited the last two years in the lower 48 and I’ll for sure be checking off another one at Volcanos NP in Hawaii.
There was no finish line ribbon as I drove into the city limits. No streets filled with cheering people gesturing for a high five.
Driving into my hometown I could not help but smile. With each passing car I thought to myself “they have no clue where this dirty green van has been or what I have just personally accomplished.” After one year, seven months and 14 days of traveling 50,382.9 miles across the lower 48 states and a spontaneous trip to Nicaragua for trail race, I am done. What a way to wake up from a dream.
Stay tuned for the next adventure…
What you don’t see when you’re driving along Interstate 94 in Southeastern Montana is the beauty! Natural Bridges, Chimney Rock and most of all solitude.
Of course to see it all there is only one way there, across a sketchy old train bridge. The old train tracks that once traveled through the area is what gives this trails its name, the Calypso Trail. Let’s say you brave the sketchy bridge you’re next obstacle is the gumbo mud back roads if it’s previously rained. Google search Terry Badlands Wilderness and you won’t find much. Especially on how to get to the actual trailhead location.
Lucky me (not) it rained the day I got to Terry Badlands. I then opted to park in the grass off the maintained gravel road for the night so I could run early morning. The couple pages I did manage to find on the area gave only a vague descriptions on the trail length to the natural bridges. I don’t run with a gps watch so I normally go off mileages from maps and my phone. With no map to help I base the run off my phone data. I ended up with 19 miles round trip from where I parked. *Remember I am not near the trailhead due to bad roads. It’s not a difficult trail what so ever. Basically an old road that wanders through the designated wilderness area.
If you’re ever in Eastern Montana and looking to hike or run let me know, I’ll gladly point you in the right direction of this cool hidden gem.
Over Memorial Weekend I had the honor of being part of a couple of my favorite peoples life memory. My best friend asked me a couple months back if I could help him with a surprise proposal to his girlfriend. We discussed the ideas he had and what he needed me to help with. Two things he asked for: 1: a beautiful view on top of a mountain. 2: if possible a little off trail away from people. Coincidence he asked his best friend who is a trail runner to help with this part…I think not! 😉
We were meeting in the Black Hills of South Dakota so I already had a spot in mind. My first thought was, Harney Peak, the highest point in South Dakota. Only problem was it’s a 7 mile round trip hike from the south side or 13 miles from the less traveled north side with connector trails. Last year in September I was here and boondocked at the trailhead on the north side. All I could remember was there being a sweet view just a couple miles below the actual lookout tower, which still marks it at roughly 10ish miles. I know what you’re thinking, he asked to be at the top of a mountain so it’s going to take some miles. True true. Quick side note there is also going to be three kids with us (Dane, Kyn, Vail), two of which are adorable little princesses. Adorable little princesses don’t hike 10 miles. Chelsey (my best friends soon to be fiancé if she says yes) made all the arrangements for where we’d be camping. Turns out the campground is literally just down the road from where I was last year! Too perfect and convenient!
Off of highway 244 you see a gravel road on the south side that leads to the Norbeck Wilderness and Palmer Creek trailhead. Since Mt. Rushmore is the main destination point when driving down this highway not many people know this dirt road exists. Making it the perfect spot on a busy weekend to fulfill one of his requests.
Early morning of the day we were meeting I set out for a run to scope out the trail. The weather was like any other typical Memorial Day weekend in South Dakota, cold and raining. As I was started to run up the trail the sky became dark with a lite sprinkle. Then after about a mile and half up the lite sprinkle turned to pea sized hail with some thunder. Being electrocuted and looking like a meat grinder hit me in the face was not what I set out for so I took cover under a pine tree just off the trail. Waiting for the storm to pass I noticed a lightly worn trail through some downed trees to a bunch of large rocks. I ventured over to the area as the clouds broke…yep Jeff’s second request was fulfilled!
A quick Dirtbag shower in the trailhead parking lot, a hike with Pup and some catch up on social media it was time to go meet up with Jeff and the family. After getting the the car unloaded Jeff and I went to get “ice and firewood”, code word for talk. Not wanting Chelsey to become suspicious a proposal may happen Jeff let her pick what to do most of the weekend. The plan was to sneak in the hike the next day in between what was picked.
A tour at Jewel Cave National Monument was at the top of Chelsey’s list. Let’s be honest, I was with her all weekend, it was the only thing on her list…haha. Love you Chels! Looking at the weather report for the next day Jeff needed to get super lucky if we did the hour and half tour at 11:30am. It was suppose to rain all day after 1pm.
A hearty all you can eat pancake and bacon breakfast started our big day before we headed to Jewel Cave. Tickets were only given in person the day of so we aimed to be an hour early before the 11:30 tour time. As we drove to the cave the suspense was killing me! We should be hiking right now! The sky was blue and the temperature was perfect. This is the moment you insert the lucky golden horse shoe into Jeff’s rear defrost (censored)! The tours were all sold out for the day! Plus the weather forecast changed to dang near perfect all day.
It was time to convince the adorable princesses to go on a short hike. Included in the princess category was now Chelsey since the cave was a no go for the day. Needless to say with a little bribery the kids were all for going on a hike. Chelsey not so much because I think she knew she’d: A: being carrying a princess or B: carrying rocks that the princesses collected. For the sake of a longer story she was right about both.
It was only a mile and half up I swear but man did it feel like it took forever. Being a trail runner I didn’t account for just hiking up the climb. The youngest was getting tired but we were so close with just a couple more switchbacks. We all took a break in the shade for a minute when I said “Dane and I are going to trail run a bit.” This was my hopes to entice them to continue. It worked when Dane and I finally got to the spot where he yelled from the top, “OH MAN YOU HAVE TO SEE THIS VIEW!”
Jeff nodded his head in approval as he approached the rock formation and caught a glimpse of the view. He whispered to me that the spot was going to be where Chelsey picked for a family picture. Then I would tell her to turn around because I have a cool picture idea with the kids. She picked a spot and I repeated my said lines. With Chelsey turned around I pulled out four little decorative chalkboards from my bag. You could tell the nerves were setting in as Jeff shook the liquid chalk marker a little to hard causing it run as we wrote the four words he was about to say to the love of his life. To buy time, I was rambling words about the clouds and lighting trying to not let on what was about to happen. My act meant nothing, I could hear the tears she was holding back.
With the three kids arranged Jeff asked Chelsey to turn around. With tears in her eyes the four of them stood there holding the nerve drawn chalkboards reading: Will U Marry Me. Then on bending knee, he express his love with what I am sure were rehearsed and unrehearsed words, then asked will you marry me?
You could feel the love overflowing the mountain top when she said yes and Jeff slid the ring on her finger. Some of their friends might say it’s been a long time coming but I say it was the perfect time. The hail storm to point me to the spot. The tour being sold out. These are just a couple of the things I shared that prove the path was meant to happen when it did.
I have been all over this country searching for the meaning of life. Wondering if there’s an answer to true happiness. The one thing I have learned is we never figure life out. We do however have the power to create our own happiness. Who we choose to let into our life’s. How we decided to live our life’s day to day. It’s that simple.
Congratulations Jeff and Chelsey! Can’t wait to be a part of the next step in the rest your life’s!
This is one thing I love about traveling around…it’s meeting amazing people! Meet Mariann and Maria of Big Horn Mountain Alpacas.
Parked in front of a trailhead waiting for someone I made plans to meet with for a hike later in the afternoon, this big Dodge truck pulls into the parking area. They moved a couple times making me think maybe I was parked in the way? (Kind of was almost in front of the start of the trail).
“Need me to move my van”, I asked?
“Nope, we’re just here to get some firewood”, Mariann replied.
As I crawled back into my van I watch her and her daughter unload a wheelbarrow and chainsaw. First thought was; chainsaw….they’ll have some really good wood for their campfire. Second thought was; wheelbarrow…that’s more then just camping trip wood. So I jumped out of the van to see if I could help.
Mariann ran the chainsaw and her daughter Maria was master of the wheelbarrow. Maria was insistent on being full controller of the wheelbarrow, come to find out she bought it with her own money! She wanted to help contribute to their wood gathering outings since running the wood back to the truck would be her task. So she spent her hard earned money from her egg profits making it her sole possession.
Chatting in between a chain change, down tree move and a couple breaks I come to find out Mariann is a beast of a trail runner! She humbly told me about her achievements and I humbly put the word beast in front her name…haha. Let’s not forget Maria she’s not just a wheelbarrow master she’s a trail runner too. Last year at the age of 10 she ran the 18 mile Bighorn Mountain Trail Race beating out more then half of the competition! So grateful to meet these two on my journey.
Everything led to us meeting this day. Truly the right place at the right time!
Checkout their website at www.bhmalpacas.com for some neat items!
If I were to write an opening act script about my life traveling the country. I would definitely start it with the views I had while I camped and hiked on the south side of Bighorn Canyon!
Even with the chance thunderstorms the picture perfect cloudy skies, literally picture perfect, were amazing! If you have ever been to the Horshoe Bend near Page, AZ I got a view better for you with less people, by less a mean no one around. With a little trail blazing at the Devil’s Canyon overlook in Bighorn Canyon National Rec Area you can get a sweet view of this hidden gem in Montana.
Then to top off the amazing views at the canyon I had the most incredible view where I park for the night! After getting to the spot I relaxed in the van while it rained, enjoying every drop on the tin roof. Out of the corner of my eye I see the sunset peek in between the horizon and clouds. As I get out of the van to watch the beautiful sunset there’s a full-blown rainbow to the east. My heart started pounding. I couldn’t wrap my head around what was happening…a sunset like that and a full rainbow!? Then my mind snapped back in to place, oh shit get a picture! I jumped in the van to grab my phone and capture the beauty in a panoramic shot.
The view didn’t last long, maybe a few minutes before it started to rain again, but my heart stuttered for close to an hour afterwards.
Want to know something cool about this picture below?
I was running along Salmon Creek Trail when I came across a patch of wild flowers. It wasn’t the first patch of flowers I ran pass as I climbed the switchbacks of the Los Padres NF trail in Big Sur California. It was however the first spot on the top of the ridge that I noticed a perfectly placed rock that would be a great spot to setup my phone to capture the beauty.
After three takes (every runner knows two takes is not enough) of bending down to hit the camera timer I got a weird feeling, a feeling of being watched. I told myself to stop being stupid bending over so many times this far out in the mountains alone. I picked up my phone and started to run the amazing single track again. Shortly after coming into a fully tree covered section I stopped to walk after hearing a noise and getting that feeling again. Maybe it was the creek flowing, or just a bird or squirrel, at most a deer I told myself.
Going the short distance to the creek crossing I stopped again to check my phone for the time. At this point I had been gone for an hour and half so I decided to head back to the van to get pup. As I put my phone away and turned around I was greeted by a mountain lion 25 feet in front of me! “Holy sh*t you’re big” I yelled! The expression on the lions face once it noticed I noticed it was almost cartoonish. With out hesitation it took off down the trail and up into the brush. As it ran away I yelled again, “NO! That’s the way I need to go!” I stood there for a few minute in shock. It seriously looked dumb founded I turned around…was it stalking me? It just went the way I need to go back…how long do I wait?
I grabbed a fallen branch and broke off a chunk incase I had to fight. After waiting several minutes I began to walk down the trail. I started talking to the lion, or myself mainly, if it could hear me. “Thank you for letting me see you, I appreciate being one of the lucky few, but I do not want to see you again!” “You are a beautiful creature, I am not scared of you, but I will kick your ass!” “I don’t like that you went the same way I need to go but I am just going home, I live in a van and taste horrible.” “I am in the middle of a detox from a fast food diet so you’re better off eating a deer that taste good.” “This makes it two times now that I have seen a cat on the trail, you are much bigger then the panther I saw in FL. I am bummed I didn’t get a photo of you but I really, really do not want to see you again to get one either.”
I walked waving the branch and talking nonsense until I came to what I remember would be open trail back to the trailhead. Remember, don’t bend over a bunch of times on the trail for a silly picture. Don’t run solo for hours on end in bad cell phone reception areas. Pssh, who am I kidding…just make sure you don’t get eaten by a mountain lion!
**Disclaimer** No running shorts were soiled during or after the sighting of the mountain lion.
Race morning came quickly with only one real day to relax and enjoy the island. The day prior was spent exploring the island on scooters, packet pickup and a group bbq. I was racing the 25K (closer to a 33K) so the start time was a late start at 10am. I opted to not go watch the beginning of the 100K/50K race because it began at 5am. Which meant I would have had to catch the 4am shuttle from our hotel. Extra sleep sounded much better before I toed the line of the hot grueling race I was about to partake in.
I woke up at 7:45am and headed to the restaurant area for breakfast. I ordered coffee and the “healthy” fruit only selection off the menu, fresh local organic fruit from the island. I drenched every piece of fruit with local honey making it extra delicious. This may have been my first mistake. I don’t eat like that before races or period and why I choose to order it I still don’t know. After eating I went back to my room to pack my Orange Mud HydraQuiver pack and lube up with Bodyglide before the 9am group ride. After riding in the back of a pickup to the start line we were gathered for another briefing about the course and heat conditions. Before we could start there was also a role call of bib numbers. This was to help keep track of every runner on the course. Luckily my number was a lower number for the race because the coffee just kicked in…second mistake. The coffee on the island is amazing and strong but it ran through my body faster than molasses every time. So I yelled here and rushed off to find a bathroom at the hotel. I made it back to the race start in time to get a decent front spot for the count down. Time for the race I have been waiting for since December!
One of two things will happen: Crash and burn or balls to the wall (or volcano wall). The race is off and I shoot out the start with the top 15 runners. The first mile was fast since it was on the beach with compacted sand. The next 3 to 4 miles was on the road to the town of Balgue. Coming up to the first aid station we turned the corner of a baseball field. Since it was a Saturday, we got some cheers from the kids playing in a little game. Feeling great, I stopped only for one glass of Gatorade…this was my third mistake! After this aid station we began the first climb on crazy single track through the jungle. I still felt good so I continued to run at a decent pace. Running through a section of a plantain grove that seemed to be holding all the heat making it a scorcher. The temp on the beach was around 95 degrees with a breeze. That grove felt like 150 plus! Coming out of the grove is where I felt my body starting to break down. Getting to the second aid station was my primary focus.
At the second aid station I chugged two gatorades, filled up both my OM bottles and ate some watermelon. But there was no salt…my fourth mistake. My salt tabs were sitting in my van back in California. So I didn’t have salt with me during one of the most humid races in the world. I could tell it was going to hit me hard and fast. I ran out the aid station with a group of four runners. Two of the runners were for sure the top females so I stuck close for the push. Talking with them a bit as we ran down hill helped easy the pain that was creeping in slowly. Crap! About a half mile later down the trail we realized there were no course marking flags! We quickly doubled back to the last time we noticed ribbon. That climb back up took everything out of me. It was around this time my body was telling me to slow down. As much as I didn’t want to listen I started to power hike knowing I should find some shade soon to cool down. I didn’t feel like dying in the jungle, on a volcano, in Nicaragua (though running would be how I’d want to go).
It was at this point a came to a guy sitting on a rock wobbling. I asked if he was good? Not really responding he got up and started to jog some with me. I told him it was hot and we needed shade. He replied something in Spanish. I pointed to the sun saying hot, then point to the shade saying bueno. He nodded and we both sat under the tree laughing at our misery.
Ernest was his name. Ernest and I had no clue what was being said by one another but our bond of pain was obvious. Not sitting long we drank some water and had a snack then we began to power hike up the volcano. The suffer fest was real at this point. Ernest and I kept each other going anxiously waiting for the third aid station to appear. Running low on water and the aid station no where in sight we sat down under a shady plantain tree where there was a breeze. I pulled out my phone to figure out how far we had roughly gone. Only 12.5’ish miles of the 22 miles were done. About this time a guy came up the trail wearing Fuego y Agua gear. He was remarking the course since it seemed someone messed with the ribbons. The course marker told us we were only 2K from the aid station. Ernest and I perked up and followed the dude up the trail. Talk about the longest 2K jog of my life! With every knee lift I was on the verge of cramping.
Finally! The aid station was like a mirage in a little village. First thing I noticed was a bag of ice so I took off my buff and filled it full. Put it around my neck and began to forage the food. SALT and potatoes! My favorite for long distance. I ate about four salt covered potatoes, chugged a couple gatorades and filled my bottles of water. Before leaving the station I grabbed Ernest pointed to the ice and his towel. I motioned for him to fill it up to wrap around his neck.
The rest the race was pretty uneventful. Majority of it was on a flat gravel road with a few hills leading back to Balgue. This was not the most scenic area. It led us through several little villages. Runners were allowed to buy random things from the local village stores. A runner just outside the third aid station was buying a fudge ice cream bar from a man with a ice cream cart. Some of the locals along the course were charging for a spray down with their water hose. One thing I did envy were the stray dogs that just lay in the sun baking. As well as the random livestock that wildly roamed the island not seeming to be effected by the heat. The road was exposed with not much shade so brutal is to say the least! Ernest and I continued to flip flop as we would run, walk past each other laughing.
Cut to the final aid station with 6K left to run! The final aid station was also the first. The volunteers here were awesome! I sat down and they got everything I needed. The final stretch was on the road to the beach then to the finish. A lady from the group ride from the hotel had caught up to me or I caught up to her, Ruthmaria. She helped push me through to the finish with her story. She had knee surgery the previous year and was out crushing this race! We swapped stories and encouragement. Once we got to the beach it was a struggle to lift the legs. Ruthmaria and I separated for the final mile so I could change the battery on my new Pivothead video glasses. After changing the battery I pushed on for that mile.
Man oh man did it feel good to cross that finish line! That 33K was seriously harder then my 50 mile race!
Thank you again to all the volunteers and to Josue for putting on a crazy tough race.
Thank you Orange Mud for making an awesome pack! The easy access bottles are so much easier for the volunteers to help refill and get me out of the station quickly.
I don’t normally hold grudges but Fuego Y Agua might have to be a redemption race in 2017!
